In the latest issue (May) of Surfer Magazine there is an article on a trip I took in January to frozen northern Japan. The beach was covered in snow and the ocean was 32 degrees, but we rode some fun right point breaks in one of the most scenic parts of the country. The photos in the article were taken by Brian Nevins. Here are a few photos I took. I will be putting together more words and a gallery with more photos for my portfolio website soon.
I really like the early seventies Surfer covers without the blurbs, especially these two with the old truck and Rincon lineup and the sequence of J. Riddle wearing a beaver tail at Little Drakes.
I just saw the new Surfer magazine with the 50 greatest surfers of all time article. Surfer asked me (as well as hundreds of others) who I considered the 20 best/most influential surfers of all time. Here’s my list in chronological order:
Duke
Tom Blake
George Downing
Pat Curren
Jose Angel
Phil Edwards
Miki Dora
Wayne Lynch
George Greenough
Eddie Aikau
Gerry Lopez
Michael Peterson
Rabbit Bartholomew
Occy
Martin Potter
Derek Hynd
Tom Carroll
Tom Curren
Slater
Joel Parkinson
They all made Surfer’s list except Jose and DH.
