Photo: Mike Kew
Photos: Todd Glaser
In early December a big swell hit Santa Barbara and the entire state decided to come here for a surf. Sandspit was too crowded and inconsistent. I thought that the bottom of the cove at Rincon was the best spot on this swell. This was the first real swell of the year so all of the sand that had built up over summer was still intact. People were kicking out of waves that would double up and reform into big sandy barrels. It reminded me of groyne Kirra in Australia before the Super Bank. Richard Kenvin came up from San Diego with a couple of his Simms fishes. They are designed after the original Bob Simmons twin fin that he made in the ’50′s. He is working on a film called Hydrodynamica which details Simmons history and the evolution of the fish design. Here’s a couple shots of me on the Sims fish. Both shots are of the same wave.